Me too Backhand
Certainly got me thinking............looking back my results back in the 80s on what are now 'our cuts' were far more productive using a combination of method one and the slop, before the advent of liquidised bread which I started using a few years back when I returned to them
Looking forward to learning the rhyme and reasoning behind your shotting pattern/choice of rigs, plumbing and combating missed bites
Here goes then:
I'm not sure whether to re-read what I've written so far, or just try to follow on. I didn't have a plan when I started writing it. Just wrote it from memory. I hope it made sence.
I will start by saying that there is a misconseption that punch fishing is a negative method. The reason I say this is that most(I'm talking about when I did it) regarded it as a scratching method when it was ultra hard or a method to try at the start of a match, just to get a few fish in the net. I will explain later, but I'm sure you have heard anglers say.
1 "I tried the punch but couldn't get a bite" or
2" I caught a few but then it died". Hopefully in the next few paragraphs I can explain why this happened to them.
Answer to 1 is they had bites but didn't detect them.
Answer to 2 they either didn't feed properly or as above.
Before I start I will also mention that the most important part of punch fishing is:
a) Getting the depth right.
b) Feeding
Getting started
Which ever method you use plumbing the depth is the most crucial element of the method. So many people do this haphazadly, thinking they will get bites, as long as there are there abouts. At the end of this piece, if I remember I will give you some examples as to why its so critical.
I will start with the waggler to hand.
Position yourself in a comfortable position on your box and hold your rod/pole exactly as you would while fishing. This is so you put the float in exactly the same spot every time, give or take afew inches.
My homemade wagglers for this method are 8 inches long.
Because
1. I am fishing in the deepest water.
2.The extra length helps combat surface drift.
Firstly I would pinch a swan shot on the hook.
Secondly I would change the float I will be using for one exactly the same length, but taking more shotting. But not in excess of one swan shot greater. This means you have a float that is more buoyant, therefore it will register the depth changes better.
Swing out the float and sink the line. If the float is sticking up(I know this bit is obvious) then decrease the depth and try again. keep doing this gradually until the tip of the float is just a pin prick on the surface.
Now in theory this is your true depth. But I only use this as a starting point.
Measure this distance against your rod and mark it (white tipex pen) or If using a pole I used to use an elastic band.
This is only your starting point and can be used to go back to incase you break a hooklink or the locking shot move accidentally.
Now with the float at this depth I would take off one inch(of depth)This I will call the starting fishing depth.
When you start, put punch on hook and swing the rig out underarm and sink the line, making sure the butt of the rod or pole is in the same position everytime. I would then feed a ball of slop right on my float.
Whether you carry on at this depth depends on the sort of bites you are getting. Because you can't see the bottom of the canal, you can't tell if there are any snags,weed etc. So even though you think you are fishing off the bottom you can't be sure.
The different bites and what to do.
1. If the float goes under and I hook a fish, I will carry on at this depth.(very rarely is the depth correct that easily)
2.If the bite isn't positive, doesn't go under, but you can tell you had a bite, but no fish hooked. Then change the depth by an inch(shallower)
You need to repeat
2. untill the float just disappears and you hook a fish.
If you get to the stage where the float goes under or it goes under very fast then you are fishing to shallow. So increase the depth by an inch until the bites are perfect as
1.
It is that easy. Its so straight forward. I believe most anglers that can't get bites on the punch are just lazy and either don't understand the importance of getting the depth right or are just to lazy.(probably because they want to fish the Caster anyway and are only doing it to keep there teammates happy). Ha Ha
Once you start catching at a given depth, its very rare to have to change. Once I was satisfied I would fish that depth all match.
I forgot to say that you must keep feeding a fingerful of slop every cast regardless if your catching or not.
In Winter leagues especially when we had to break the ice, I have gone 3 hours without a bite. But I was so confident in the method, that I knew once the roach started to feed I would get bites. Obviously and before anyone mentions it. You can't get the depth exactly right until you start getting bites. So go through above procedure once that happens.
Thats enough for now. At least its keeping me amused on a cold winters night.
If you are still interested I will try and think of something else to say. But please ask any questions. As its hard thinking of all the things you need to do, while I'm typing.
Also I believe that this method will
always catch you roach in the winter, if
ayou have any in front of you and
bthey are willing to feed yet.
When I read this back it sounds more complicated than it really is. The whole procedure only took me 5 or 10 min. But plumbing and getting the depth right, and I will repeat is the most critical part.
At times in matches the difference of a one inch depth change, resulted in getting positive sail away bites when before the float didn't even move.
Also its the same procedure if you decided to fish long pole/short line. The no 12 shot under the float, I would start with it 6 inches below the wire. After I had done the initial plumb. Then take of inches
as above until I got positive hitable bites. All the depth changes were done with a ruler and I would always remember exactly how many, memorizing as I went 1,2,3,4 inches.
I have caught fish at the starting depth and as high as 6 inches of bottom. Though I never regarded it as 6inches off, rather just the depth I caught at, as you can never be sure what's on the bottom.
I must go, but I will say, I am quite pleased someone is still interested in this almost forgotten method. With so many now only fishing commercials the old (good) methods could easily be forgotten.
I keep thinking of other things to say. But in case your wondering. I haven't fished this method in anger(in a match) since 1995 when I packed up disillutioned with the dropping numbers.
But 10 weeks ago at the beginning of Oct. I climbed up in my attic and retrieved all my match tackle.
Went down the canal and fished the above method for the 1st time in 15 years. I caught 10lb 10 oz of roach and skimmers and realised that you never forget how to do it. Although I did need to put on my glasses to tie the hook(ha ha)
The week after I went to a different stretch and fished the long pole/short line down the middle(7.5metres) used liquidised bread.(whole loaf at the start, via a cup, big one) and caught 7lb 12oz.(mostly roach)
Both days were good fun and I haven't done it for such a long time, put the bottom line is there were no winnings at the end.
Thanks for listening
michael